3 ways to upgrade your handmade soap

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In this soap making video I show you 3 things I like to add to my handmade soap to make it better. I also make a cold process soap and show you the process I use when making soap with these 3 ingredients.

Thank you for watching!

'Upgraded' soap recipe:

Total batch weight: ~800 g

275 g olive oil (50%)
137.5 g coconut oil (25%)
82.5 g cocoa butter (15%)
55 g mango butter (10%)

116 g distilled water
10 g citric acid
83.3 g lye (77.3 g if not using citric acid)

(40% lye concentration, 5% superfat)

additives:
40 g coconut cream
1 tsp silk powder
10 g eucalyptus essential oil
dried cornflower petals for decoration

Cure the soap 4-6 weeks before using.

○ Citric acid information

When citric acid and sodium hydroxide lye (NaOH) are combined, sodium citrate is created. Sodium citrate works as a chelator in soap.

A chelator traps metal ions such as calcium and magnesium that can be found in tap water.

These metal contaminants can cause rancidity and soap scum in handmade soap.

A chelator binds to these metals so that they can’t bind to the soap molecules. This way the soap won’t react with them and the soap's lather improves + shelf life increases.

Citric acid does not lower the pH of soap. Instead it consumes some of the lye and increases the superfat. Add 6 g extra lye for every 10 g of citric acid added to a soap recipe if you want to keep the superfat % at the same level.

How much citric acid should be added to soap?

Usage rate in bar soap is 1-2% of the oil weight.

How to use citric acid

Add citric acid to the distilled water and dissolve completely before adding the lye.


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